The Yamanote
...learning Japanese at Kobans...
Some weeks ago I decided that a good way of rounding off what I had seen of
Tokyo so far, was to cycle to every station on the Yamanote train Line. The
Yamanote probably the most important, and first railway line in Tokyo. It is a
loop around the core of Tokyo city’s center.
The whole trip turned into quite an adventure…
On Sunday morning I left Omori at around 830. I had planned on collecting Maps
of as many places on the line as I could, so I went into Shinagawa station and
collected a nice map of Tokyo, and an OK one of Shinagawa. My next place-to-see
was the rainbow bridge - I had planed on walking on the promenade, but was too
lazy to find the entry.
Hibiya park was really pretty, autumn liked it. Came out from Hibiya park, and
reached a nice cycle only road, near the Imperial Palace. Reached the Marunouchi
side of Tokyo station… ’twas being renovated.
Tokyo station is massive. The sign even says ‘Tokyo Station City’. And they
aren’t kidding around. It has streets inside.
Shinbashi: train thing. Went through Hibiya Koen. People were busy getting
married there. Near the Imperial Palace they had a cycle-only road. Reached the
Marunouchi exit of Tokyo-eki. Really pretty. I have pics. Went back to
Yurakucho.
Akihabra is everything Japan is known for. Manga Dolls, Anime, Maid Cafes,
Otaku and other Asorted Weirdness.
But when you go to Akiba you gotta buy the chop sticks of course, that’s what it
is known for. ;)
Maid Cafe. Called MaiDreamin. Never been that lost in Tokyo. Ever. I was
greeted with a ‘Good evening master’ of course, or words to that effect. Weird
guy dressed kind of like a maid fit right in. The maids do these power up
fingers-in-shape-of-heart-thing to the hotto cohee ordered. Ketchup-bear on the
omlette rice. Weird clap dance when someone orders a cocktail. Out at 4.
Okachimachi: Lots of shops. Walked from okachimachi to Ueno because of the
crowd.
Ueno: Park. Elvis Dancers of course. Already dark so mostly pointless. Ate at
Izakaya.
Uguisudani: Got free beer from guy-at-the-side.
Nippori: Fuji slope thingy. Black on black silhouettos aren’t very impressive
though.
Nishi Nippori: Peed in the park. Well… In a toilet in the park.
Nippori: Huh?
Nishi Nippori: waiit a moment… Oh wait the sign says Fuji-muzaki. Must go.
Graveyard. Waaaaaaiit. I’ve been here before. Hah. Now I know I actually saw
Fuji, not some random bit of night sky.
Nippori: Ask for directions. Attempt to follow them but reach
back to where I started from. Ask directions again. Cross tracks. Climb steep
hill.
Tabata: godforsakensonofabitchifinallyfoundyou.
Boring. And at the bottom of a
hill. Up the hill. Cycle. Cycle downhill. Fun. Ask for directions.
Note-to-self: Always as directions before cycling downhill. Up the hill again.
Kagome: Ignore directions from napkin-handing-out people at station. Good thing
too.
Sugome: Woah. Tokyo has trams. I had thought that google maps screwed up when
they called a station Sugome-eki-mae (station in-front-of Sugome station).
Otsuka: don’t remember anything about it.
Ikebukuro: Crowd reminds me of Shibuya/Shinjuku. About 9PM by now. Hungry.
Tired. Cycle down what I assume is Mejiro dori. For quite a while. Ask
direction. Go back. Find Mejiro.
Mejiro: Pic. Move on. Lost. See Koban. Empty. Wait 5 mins for cop. No show.
Cycle. Cycle. Cycle. Tired. Ask ‘Sumimasen. Chikaku eki ari masu, ka?’ ‘Is
there a station nearby?’
Find station. See 50 cycles. Park cycles. Take photo of station name. Go
inside. Still dont know station name. Find sign pic. Araiyukishi-mae.
Seibu-Shinjuku sen for Takadanobaba.
Takadanobaba: exhausted. Change to yamanote-sen. Shinjuku. Harajuku. Yoyogi.
Shibuya. Meguro. Gotanda. Ebisu. Osaki. Shinagawa: Change to Keihin-Tohuko-sen.
Oimachi. Omori. Home. 11PM. Bed. Sleeeeeep.
Monday
Work. Take Oido subway to Nakai. Change to seibu-shinjuku line. Reach
Araiyukucho-mae-eki. No Cycle.
There is, however, a previously unnoticed no-parking sign.
Koban. HEhhhh …. I’ve been here before. Its the same ghost-koban I saw near
Mejiro. Only now there is someone inside.
Explain all about cycle and no parking area to man in koban. Interestingly he
recognised the picture of the beatles that is my kindl screensaver. He seems
to believe that it is stolen. File report. Ask about impound and tell about no
parking area. He-no-understand-I-think. Ramen for dinner. Home.
Wednesday
Work. Ask someone about bicycle impound. Someone else calls up the Nakano-ku
impound.
Ari masu. They have it. Go-sen-yen. ¥5000.
Got there. Get cycle, pay up. Go to Nakano Broadway… buy sweater and
shirt. Look for keys. Woops. No keys. Wonder. Go to hyaku en shop buy cheap
saw and cut? Go koban? Go koban. Explain: Watashi no jitansha no kagi
lost-o desu. ID. Passport copy.
So here I am, 15 km from home, 10km from work. I’m asking a cop to break a lock
off of a bicycle. The bicycle is reported stolen. The only ID I have is a copy of my
passport. I don’t know why but they seemed a little suspicious of me.
Eventually, after much beating around the bush, I am asked to step into a
patrol vehicle and taken to Nakano police station. I wait for an hour, as
they check my visa details. Eventually I’m let go with a promise that I would
tell the Tazuka police that my bicycle was found.
Thus ends the adventures of Man Lost in Tokyo.