Jullay!
Leh, Ladhak - by cycle.
One mid august Sunday I get a call from Saahil asking if I want to get Leh -
but I have to decide in half an hour. What the hell - yes - I’ve wanted to go
there for the last 3 years. Very reasonable rates Rs 7500, more or less
everything provided by the YHAI.
Except. Fun stuff like getting a GRE date. Anyway somehow pull that off - get
the best possible date, two days before the trip.
Finish GRE. Half dead the next day, but have to work. Then realize flight was
one day before I thought it was - start packing 3 hours before the flight
(thanks Mum, Dad, Deej). Fly Mumbai - Raipur - Bhopal - Delhi - Leh. I’ve been
on trains with less stops.
Days of rest
Reach Leh, take a cab to the YHAI place - Jimmy House. After registering, we’re
told to sit around and sleep the whole day at the house with the black gate -
nothing strenuous like climbing onto the terrace and taking pictures or
anything ;).
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View from ‘La Vong’
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From the terrace
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Leh palace
The next day, we walk around Leh, eat ladhaki Khari biscuits, buy dubba’s
for packed lunch and check out the Leh market, all that. Introduced to the
people from outside our group of 6 in the room. Met the bicycles - trek 3700s.
Very climbing oriented gearing. Soup. Dinner. Bournevita. Sleep.
Spituk
Next day we did a cycle around to an Army museum called the Hall of Fame museum
– they had decent chai. Went to Spituk monastery - brilliant
(read: typical ladakhi) views. Drink chai, lunch and the come back the same
way - only this time uphill. Saahil and I were selected as the rear guard with
the green flag, keep the cycle kit with us. Soup. Dinner. Bournevita. Campfire
(without the fire). Sleep.
Road of evil
It’s uphill, but only slightly… what kills us is the wind - it’s blowing
against us. The sun’s high up in the sky, making you sweat and the wind
immediately blows it away. Not a bit of shade in sight. Freezing and sweating
at the same time. Once we’re about halfway up, our waters over two. By this
point about half of us are walking our bikes up. Saahil and I though, we’re
cycling up about 300 meters, walking back, and taking someone else’s cycle up.
Finally reach the Sikh gurudvara we’re supposed to have lunch at by 3. It was
all downhill from there, but in a good way.
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Down in the gutter
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It’s all downhill from here
Supposedly supposed to magnetically attract cars parked in neutral. Lawl. Just
a bad optical illusion
Met some brake-fixing, pen-knife-giving road-tripping dudes from Bangalore.
Freezing water, if you last 2-3 minutes in the water, the pain give way to
numbness and it becomes quite nice.
From basgo

Sanju organized Burji at random corner shop at the lunch stop. We discovered
the addictiveness of Wai Wai noodles. Soon hardly a conversation went
without it’s mention.
Nurla camp
More of a resort than a camp and bloody pretty.
Nurla to Lamayuru
// Sorry no pictures - batteries were dead
Played a game of intensive ludo - prerequisites: A ludo board, dice, counters,
four Delhi Boys. Counting squares is accidentally or intentionally approximate,
every turn is 3-teams-vs-the-winning-team, rules may be made up mid game unless
someone objects, extra points for driving customers away from resorts because
of the noise.
The day of eating and taking cycling breaks
The last day, coming from Lamayuru back to Leh, some of us set off for Fotula
Top, the highest point of the Leh-Srinagar Highway. We left pretty late, and
expected to miss breakfast before we leave for Kaltse. We took roughly an hour
and a half to climb up to the pass, 10 minutes up there, and half an hour back
down.
When we got back, the guys running the place we were staying we nice
enough to re-open the breakfast buffet. Everyone stuffed themselves.
Since clearly our plan of eating samosas at Tiger Hill Cafe was clearly not
going to happen, we decided to take it much easier than our normal
catchup-with-group-wait-half-an-hour-and-continue pace, we did a
eat-for-half-an-hour-have-chai-and-wai-wai pace instead.
Somewhere along, the Delhi boys organized a Punjabi dance on the highway; Sumit
joins us with his ‘tap-dancing shoes’.
Found a Punjabi dhabba that made good omelets, ate, drank tea. Found a place in
Khaltse where they served good Tibetan food - Thupka and chow mein. Found a
shade spot on the highway… brought out the wai wai. Got on the bus, stopped
at the gurudwara and ate at the langar. Then we had some tea (Best masala
chai ever.) and biscuits too.
Pangong Lake
Headed off on a road trip to Pangong Lake, 6 hour ride each way, pretty views.
As in no the normal Ladhakh view pretty - that’s gotten boring by this point.
Discovered Kawa - kashmiri tea - and was of course immediately addicted to it.
Got back and gathered most of the group for an ‘authentic Tibetan meal’.
Left the next day via Srinagar

Strava links
Day 1: Cycling around Leh
Leh base camp to Spituk monastery
Spituk back to leh
Day 2: Leh to Basgo
Leh to Basgo
Day 3: Basgo to Nurla
Basgo to Nurla
Day 4: Nurla to Lamayuru
Nothing recorded, phone battery dead.
Day 5: Lamayuru - Fotula - Kaltse
Lamayuru to I’m-hungry-point
I’m-hungry-point to Fotula
Fotula to Lamayuru
Lamayuru to Kaltse